South Korea Guide
Jeju
The mass of islands draping off Korea's southern coast fades into the Pacific, before coming to an enigmatic conclusion in the crater-pocked isle of JEJU, known locally as Jejudo. This tectonic pimple in the South Sea is the country's number one holiday destination, particularly for Korean honeymooners, and it's easy to see why – the island's volcanic crags, innumerable beaches and colourful rural life draw comparisons with Hawaii and Bali, a fact not lost on the local tourist authorities. In many ways it's as if regular Korea has been given a makeover – splashes of tropical green fringe fields topped off with palm trees and tangerine groves, and while Jeju's weather may be breezier and damper than the mainland, its winter is eaten into by lengthier springs and autumns, allowing oranges, pineapples and dragon fruit to grow.
Jeju City is the largest settlement, and whether you arrive by plane or ferry, this will be your entry point to the island. Inland are the Manjanggul lava tubes, one of the longest such systems in the world, and Sangumburi, the largest and most accessible of Jeju's many craters. All roads eventually lead to Seogwipo on the south coast; this relaxed, waterfall-flanked city is Jeju's second-largest settlement, and sits next to the five-star resort of Jungmun. In the very centre of the island is Hallasan, an extinct volcano and the country's highest point at 1950m, visible from much of the island, though often obscured by Jeju's fickle weather.
Jeju is one of the few places in Korea where renting a car or bicycle isn't tantamount to suicide. Outside Jeju City, roads are generally empty and the scenery is almost always stunning, particularly in the inland areas.
Highlights
1 Seongsan Catch the sunrise from a peak above this charming town, then take a ferry to the nearby island of Udo.
2 Manjanggul Live out your Indiana Jones fantasies at Jeju‘s underground lava tube, one of the world's longest.
3 Route 97 A rural day-trip along this road can see you take in a volcanic crater, a folk village and a culture museum, before finishing at the beach.
4 Seogwipo Flanked by waterfalls, Jeju's second largest city is a relaxed base for tours of the sunny southern coast.
5 Teddy Bear Museum, Seogwipo The moon landings and the fall of the Berlin Wall are just some of the events to be given the teddy treatment at this shrine to high kitsch.
6 Yakcheonsa Turn up for the evening service at this remote temple for one of Jeju's most magical experiences.
7 Hallasan Korea's highest point at 1950m, this mountain dominates the island and just begs to be climbed.