Japan Guide
Shikoku
It has beautiful scenery, a laid-back atmosphere, friendly people and several notable sights, yet SHIKOKU, Japan's fourth main island, is usually at the bottom of most visitors' itineraries – if it appears at all. This is a shame, since this tranquil island, nestling in the crook between Honshū and Kyūshū, offers elements of traditional Japan that are often hard to find elsewhere. An ancient Buddhist pilgrimage, original castles and distinctive arts and crafts are some of Shikoku's attractions – but equally appealing are the island's rural pace of life and little-visited villages and smaller surrounding islands. Set aside a week or so to get around all Shikoku's four prefectures.
If travelling by train, you're most likely to begin your journey around the island in Kagawa-ken on the northern coast, after crossing the Seto Ōhashi. Stop in Takamatsu to visit the delightful gardens of Ritsurin-kōen and, in the west of the prefecture, the shrine at Kotohira. If you have a bit more time, sail out to one of the nearby Inland Sea islands, such as Shōdo-shima or Nao-shima. Shikoku's southern coast, fanning out between the dramatically rocky capes at Ashizuri and Muroto, is covered by Kōchi-ken. Flowing through the west of the prefecture is the Shimantogawa, one of Japan's most beautiful rivers. Matsuyama, the capital of the eastern prefecture of Ehime-ken, is justly famous for its castle – one of the best in Japan – and the onsen at Dōgo, where emperors and commoners have come to bathe for centuries. Also within the prefecture, the charming small towns of Ōzu and Uchiko provide glimpses of a pre-industrialized Japan.
In the prefectural capitals you'll find a wide range of hotels, restaurants and bars, as well as international centres and tourist information offices, while the island's famous 88-temple pilgrimage means that even in the countryside you're unlikely to be stuck for accommodation.
Highlights
1 Ritsurin-kōen A century in the making, Japan‘s largest garden is Takamatsu‘s verdant highlight.
2 Nao-shima Contemporary art and architecture combine with serene fishing villages on this idyllic Inland Sea island.
3 Kompira-san Climb 1346 steps to the innermost shrine of one of Shinto's major places of pilgrimage.
4 Awa Odori Over a million revellers let their hair down at Tokushima's annual summer dance festival, Japan's equivalent of Rio‘s Carnival.
5 Ōboke Gorge Go white-water rafting on the crystal-clear Yoshino River through this spectacular gorge hidden in the island‘s central mountains.
6 Shimanto-gawa This beautiful river twists through lush countryside past pine-clad slopes and terraced rice fields.
7 Uchiko and Ōzu Charming and little-visited historical towns in remote Ehime-ken.
8 Matsuyama This castle city boasts good nightlife, a strong literary history, a famous hot-spring resort and one of the country's strangest temples.