Japan Guide
Around Tokyo
It doesn't take long to get out of the capital – two hours at most – and it's well worth the effort. The single best reason for venturing out lies to the north, at Nikkō, where the incredible shrine complex of Tōshō-gū offers a riotous feast for the senses. The surrounding mountains are beautiful throughout the year – particularly when decked out in autumn colours – and hold some fantastic walking country. The temple complex of Naritasan Shinshō-ji, with its lovely pagoda, extensive gardens, woods and ornamental ponds, is the highlight of the pilgrim town of Narita, some 60km northeast of Tokyo.
Ceramics lovers shouldn't miss out on Mashiko, north of Tokyo in Tochigi-ken, a pottery town associated with the famed craftsman Hamada Shōji and British potter Bernard Leach. Some 40km north of Tokyo in Saitama-ken is Kawagoe, known as "Little Edo", a great place to wander through nostalgic nineteenth-century streetscapes, poke around ancient temples and shrines, and indulge in some serious souvenir shopping. Sacred Mount Takao, just an hour west of the capital, provides a more verdant escape for the casual walker and is the starting point for serious hikes northwest to the Chichibu-Tama National Park.
Looming to the west of Tokyo is Japan's most famous landmark, the venerable Mount Fuji, where you can either make the tough ascent up the volcano or simply relax in the surrounding countryside. Nearby, the inviting landscapes of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, particularly around Hakone and south through Izu Hantō, warrant a couple of days' exploration.
Closer to Tokyo, the deceptively unassuming town of Kamakura is one of Japan's major historical sights, home to several imposing Zen temples and the country's second largest bronze Buddha, the magnificent Daibutsu. Just north of Kamakura you're back into the urban sprawl where Tokyo merges with Yokohama, Japan's second largest and most cosmopolitan city, with a smattering of attractions, not least the gourmet restaurants of Chinatown.
Highlights
1 Nikkō The dazzling shrine Tōshō-gū is the star turn of this cosy mountain town, surrounded by a beautiful national park and lakes.
2 Kawagoe Explore kura-lined streets and old temples and shrines of this historic town that preserves a little slice of old Edo.
3 Ukai Toriyama Dine in small tatami rooms in a delightful woodland setting at the foot of venerable Mount Takao.
4 Mount Fuji You don't need to climb Fuji to admire its snowcapped form, but reaching the summit is a rewarding, once-in-a-lifetime challenge.
5 Hakone This premier onsen resort sports many traditional ryokan, a funicular and ropeway ride, and a lovely lake which you can sail across in a seventeenth-century-style galleon.
6 Kamakura Japan's ancient seaside capital offers woodland walks between peaceful temples and bustling shrines, plus a giant bronze Buddha with a secretive smile.
7 Chinatown, Yokohama Yokohama's Chinatown – the largest in Japan – is a blast of bright colours, pungent smells and frenetic commercial life, all focused around the lively Kantei-byō shrine.