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India Guide

Rajasthan

Jaisalmer

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In Rajasthan's remote westernmost corner, JAISALMER is the quintessential desert town, its sand-yellow ramparts rising from the arid Thar like a scene from the Arabian Nights. Rampant commercialism has dampened the romantic vision, but even with all the touts and tour buses, it remains one of India's most popular destinations. Villagers from outlying settlements, dressed in dazzling red and orange, still outnumber foreigners in the bazaar, while the exquisite sandstone architecture of the "Golden City" is quite unlike anything else in India.

Getting lost in Jaisalmer's narrow winding streets is both easy and enjoyable, though it never takes long to find a familiar landmark. Among the numerous pale honey-coloured facades, covered with latticework and floral designs, the city's real showpieces are its havelis, commissioned by wealthy merchants during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Activities

1 Adventure Travel just south of the First Fort Gate 0/941 414 9176 www.adventurecamels.com Camel safari operator, which gets rave reviews for seeking out remote locations and providing fringe amenities, like real mattresses and sheets, at low prices.

2 Sahara Travels Gopa Chowk 02992/252609 www.mrdesertjaisalmer.com Well-priced, dependable camel safaris, run by the instantly identifiable "Mr. Desert," a former truck driver turned Rajasthani model and movie star. "Don't make a booking until you see the face," is his motto.

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