India Guide
Madhya Pradesh
Hot, dusty MADHYA PRADESH is a vast landlocked expanse of scrub-covered hills, sun-parched plains and one third of India's forests. Stretching from beyond the headwaters of the mighty River Narmada to the fringes of the Western Ghats, it's a transitional zone between the Gangetic lowlands and the dry Deccan plateau to the south.
Though, despite exceptional attractions ranging from ancient temples and hilltop forts to tiger reserves, Madhya Pradesh receives relatively little tourist traffic, this gem of a state is both culturally rewarding and largely hassle-free. The only places you're likely to meet more than a handful of tourists are the atmospheric ruined capital of the Bundella rajas at Orchha, the erotica-encrusted temples of Khajuraho, and the tiger reserves of Kanha and Bandhavgarh.
Several monuments associated with the long Muslim domination of the region are easy to visit, including the romantic ghost town of Mandu, capital of the Malwa sultans, and Gwalior, whose hilltop fort-palace was the linchpin of both the Delhi Sultanate's and the Mughals' southward expansion.
Attracting more tourists is seen by officials as one way of boosting the state's economic prospects. In addition to its historic sites, Madhya Pradesh boasts a number of wildlife reserves. In the sparsely populated east, remote savannah grasslands are an ideal habitat for deer and bison, while the shady sal forests and tarai swamplands that surround the maidans provide perfect cover for larger predators such as the tiger. Of the national parks hidden away in this area, Kanha is deservedly popular, though there are more chances of seeing the big cats at Bandhavgarh National Park to the north, while the appealing Pench and Panna have the advantage of far fewer visitors.
In 2000, sixteen districts seceded from Madhya Pradesh to form Chhattisgarh, which has rich mineral resources but is badly affected by violent Naxalite activity. While there is little in the way of stand-out attractions, the state has fascinating tribal groups, particularly in the Bastar region, and offers the opportunity to travel in an area barely touched by foreign tourists.
Highlights
1 Sanchi A finely restored Buddhist stupa complex, complete with intricately carved gateways.
2 Orchha Madhya Pradesh at its most exotic: crumbling riverside tombs and ornate Rajput palaces amid lush, tranquil countryside.
3 Khajuraho Temples swathed in blatantly erotic sculpture, lost for centuries in thick jungle but now beautifully restored.
4 Kanha National Park Archetypal Kipling country, teeming with wildlife, notably tigers.
5 Mandu A medieval fort atop a plateau where the emperor got down to serious pleasure-seeking in his vast harem, theatre, steam baths and pavilions.