China Guide
The Yellow River
Qingdao
Modern Qingdao is a very important port, China's fourth largest, but the old town, which once was a museum piece of red-roofed Bavarian architecture, is today being run down and neglected as a huge, modern industrial city cut by multi-lane highways sprouts 5km to the east; pretty much the only reason to head this way is for the year-round ferry connections to South Korea and Japan.
The main thing to do in Qingdao is to wander through the old German town, where some quiet back lanes retain a century-old ambience, or to head down to the white sand beaches, which get busy in the summer. Anchoring the old German town is the fine Catholic Church (Mon– Sat 8am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; ¥5), whose distinctive double spires can be seen from all over the western parts of the city. The streets east of here are interesting, some cobbled, many lined with pink buildings with black iron balconies overlooking the street. East again, the Yingbin Hotel on Longshan Lu (daily 8.30am–4.30pm; ¥15) is an incredible, Disney-style fortress built in 1905. It's worth a tour, as the German Governor-General, the warlord Yuan Shikai and Chairman Mao have lodged here in their time. South of here, the Qingdao Museum on Daxue Lu (Tues– Sun 8.30am–5pm; ¥15) is housed in a beautiful, temple-like building. There's a collection of paintings here from the Yuan through to Qing dynasties, and four large Buddhas dating back to 500–527 AD, slim striking figures with bulbous, smiling heads. One last essential sight is the Tsingtao Museum and Bar, at 56 Dengzhou Lu ( 
0532/8383 3437; daily 8.30am-4.30pm; ¥50). Though the museum itself is pretty tame, the ticket includes three glasses of beer, and the bar here will let you buy more.