China Guide
The Yellow River
The central Chinese provinces of Shanxi, Shaanxi, Henan and Shandong are linked and dominated by the Yellow River, which has played a vital role in their history, geography and fortunes. The river is often likened to a dragon, a reference not just to its sinuous course, but also to its uncontrollable nature – by turns benign and malevolent. The river's modern name is a reference to the vast quantities of yellow silt – loess – it carries, which has largely determined the region's geography. Where irrigation has been implemented the loess becomes rich and fertile, and it was in this soil, on the Yellow River's flood plain, that Chinese civilization first took root.
Of the four provinces, Shanxi is the poor relation, relatively underdeveloped and with the least agreeable climate and geography (temperatures regularly drop to -10°C in winter). But it does have some great attractions, most notably the Yungang cave temples, and a very beautiful holy mountain, Wutai Shan. Dotted around the small towns along the single rail line leading south to the Yellow River plain are quirky temples and villages that seem stuck in the nineteenth century. Shaanxi province is more of the same, yet its wealthy and historically significant capital city, Xi'an, is one of China's biggest tourist destinations, with as many temples, museums and tombs as the rest of the region put together, and the Terracotta Army deservedly ranking as one of China's premier sights. Within easy travelling distance of here, following the Yellow River east, is the holy mountain Song Shan, home of the legendary Shaolin king-fu temple, and the city of Luoyang in Henan, with the superb Longmen cave temples and Baima Si just outside. East again lies Shandong, a province with less of a distinctive identity, but home to more small and intriguing places: Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius, with its giant temple and mansion; Tai Shan, the most popular holy mountain in the area; and the coastal city of Qingdao, which offers a couple of beaches and a ferry service to South Korea.
Highlights
1 Yungang Caves See glorious Buddhist statuary from the fifth century, nestling in grottoes near Datong.
2 Walking Wutai Shan The least developed of China's four Buddhist mountains is actually five flat peaks, perfect for independent exploration.
3 Pingyao An intact Ming-era walled city, home to winding back alleys and a number of atmospheric hotels and guesthouses.
4 The Terracotta Army No visit to China is complete without a peek at these warrior figurines, guarding the tomb of Qin Shi Huang near Xi'an.
5 Longmen Caves, Luoyang Walk along a riverside promenade past caves peppering limestone cliff faces, containing more than 100,000 Buddhist carvings.