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Tunisia Guide

Things not to miss

    1 Kairouan Great Mosque • One of Islam's holiest sites – four trips here, so they say, are as good as a pilgrimage to Mecca.

    2 El Jem's amphitheatre • This huge arena where gladiators once slogged it out is much better preserved than Rome's Colosseum.

    3 The forests of Aïn Draham • Not the landscape you expected in Tunisia: fresh, Alpine, snowy in winter and planted with cork oak trees, whose bark is stripped periodically to make anything from bottle stoppers to floor tiles.

    4 Kerkouane • A town whose ancient private houses, each with a characteristic red-bottomed bathtub, are almost the only surviving remnant of a Carthaginian culture systematically destroyed by Rome.

    5 Jerban mosques • Built by a breakaway sect of Islam to double up as places of refuge in times of trouble, the fort-like mosques of Jerba attractively dot the island's interior.

    6 Bulla Regia • Subterranean villas and sumptuous mosaics at the country's most unusual Roman site.

    7 Dougga • The most extensive Roman site in Tunisia, featuring a restored theatre, a town brothel and an intriguing Libyco-Punic mausoleum.

    8 Chenini • Built around ancient hilltop forts, this troglodyte Berber village boasts whitewashed mosques, antique olive-oil presses and cave dwellings.

    9 Bardo Museum • The world's greatest collection of Roman mosaics, not to mention statues, frescoes and sarcophagi, all housed in a fabulous palace in Tunis.

    10 Tabarka • A fine beach resort dominated by its imposing Genoese castle.

    11 Le Kef • Great views and some fascinating monuments in this strategic old town, overlooked by a solid citadel.

    12 Chott el Jerid • A shallow seasonal salt lake, dry for ten months of the year, when it's a vast, flat expanse of salt crystals glittering in the sunlight and shimmering with mirages.

    13 Nefta • A beautiful old town of Sufi mosques and quaint alleyways, built around a palm-filled crater called the Corbeille.

    14 Ksour • These fortified structures were built by Berber tribes to store and defend their grain, and as a meeting place for the community; now mostly disused, they're strewn over the south of the country.

    15 Carthage • Once the great rival to imperial Rome and home to Hannibal and his elephants, Carthage today is a scattering of ancient sites amid beautiful country by the sea.

    16 Sfax Medina • The most unspoiled of all Tunisia's old walled cities, and an utterly fascinating place to wander amid feverish commercial activity.

    17 Kerkennah Islands • Odysseus, Hannibal and former President Habib Bourguiba all enjoyed exile on these laid-back, idyllic and very friendly islands, whose shallow waters make their beaches ideal for children.

    18 Bizerte • A strategic port and a pretty one, with two citadels, a Spanish fort and an Andalusian quarter.

    19 Hammamet beach • Tunisia's finest beach is a sweeping curve of soft yellow sand backed by lush green vegetation, making Hammamet justifiably the country's top seaside resort.

    20 Mahdia • Tunisia's most charming resort, whose old city, on its own little peninsula, is protected by a sixteenth-century gateway.

    21 Sidi Bou Saïd • A tumble of sleek whitewashed villas on a hillside overlooking the sea, this chic suburb of Tunis is a home from home to the arty, the elegant and the affluent of Tunisia and Europe alike.

    22 Sbeïtla • Capital for a year under the Byzantines, this well-preserved Roman site was once a major centre for Christianity in North Africa, as its impressive collection of ancient churches attests.

    23 Matmata • With its strange, crater-like pit-dwellings dug into the soft sandstone, the landscape here has often been compared to the moon's – but Matmata has lots more atmosphere.