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South Africa Guide

The Western Cape

Knysna

South Africa's 1990s tourist boom rudely shook KNYSNA (pronounced "Nize-nuh") from its gentle backwoods drowse, which for decades made this the hippy and craftwork capital and quiet retirement village of the country. The town, 102km east of Mossel Bay, now stands at the hub of the Garden Route, its lack of ocean beaches compensated for by its hilly setting around the Knysna lagoon, its handsome forests, good opportunities for adventure sports, a pleasant waterfront development – and some hot marketing.

Knysna's distinctive atmosphere derives from its small historic core of Georgian and Victorian buildings, which gives it a character absent from most of the Garden Route holiday towns. Coffee shops, craft galleries, street traders and a modest nightlife add to the attractions, and you may find yourself tempted to stay longer than just one night. That the town has outgrown itself is evident from the cars and tour buses which, especially in December and January, clog Main Street, the constricted artery that merges with the N2 as it enters the town.

Knysna activities

1 Knysna Featherbed Company 044 382 1693 This compnay runs several 75-minute trips a day from Knysna Quays to The Heads (R80), a ninety-minute trip on the double-decker M/V John Benn (R90), as well as a dinner cruise (R295) on purportedly the only paddle-driven vessel in the country. For travel beyond The Heads, you can take a sailing trip (1hr 30min; R200) and a sunset cruise (2hr 30min; R440) with delicious food and wine. The only way to reach the private Featherbed Nature Reserve on the western side of the lagoon is on a four-hour Featherbed Nature Tour (R300), which includes the boat there and use of a 4WD shuttle to the top of the western Head, with the option of walking 2km back downhill to enjoy spectacular views and see flora and fauna, including Knysna louries; a buffet meal is included as well. There's a slightly shorter version (3hr 30min) which excludes the meal (R190). Bookings are essential, and can be made at the kiosk on the north side of Knysna Quays; departures are from the Waterfront Jetty and municipal jetty on Remembrance Avenue, 400m west of the quays and station.

2 Seal Adventures 044 382 5599 Abseiling and rapjumping trips (the latter involving running down a mountainside while harnessed; R300) in the Featherbed Nature Reserve, canoeing trips on the lagoon (R180), and quad biking (R350) in the forests.

3 Deep South 044 382 2010 or 083 250 9441 www.deepsoutheco.com Customaized tours allow you to combine, for example, mountain biking and a lagoon cruise (R630 per person for 2–6 people; cost includes lunch). It will also do standalone mountain biking trips or cruises.

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