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South Africa Guide

Mpumalanga

Pilgrim's Rest

Hiding in a valley 35km north of Sabie, PILGRIM'S REST, an almost too-perfectly restored gold-mining town, is an irresistible port of call for the scores of tour buses meandering daily through the Escarpment's passes. A collection of red-roofed, corrugated-iron buildings, including a period bank, a filling station with pre-1920 fuel pumps and the characterful Royal Hotel brimming with Victoriana, the place is undeniably photogenic. But you can't help feeling there's little substance behind the romanticized gold-rush image, especially when the village nods off after 5pm once the day-trippers have been spirited away, and everything is designed to fleece the tourist.

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