South Africa Guide
Limpopo
The Lapalala Wilderness Area
Down a dirt road at the Melkrivier junction on the tarred Marken road, the Lapalala Wilderness Area ( 
014 775 4071, 
www.lapalala.com ) is a 360-square-kilometre reserve established in 1981. Masterminded by the highly regarded South African conservationist and artist, Clive Walker, it provides sanctuary for endangered and rare animals, and has developed into one of the foremost conservation projects in the country. It was the first private game reserve in South Africa to obtain the highly endangered black rhino, five of which were acquired from Natal Parks Board for R2.2 million.
There are three tented self-catering bush camps (all Price: R201-300) in different parts of Lapalala. Of these, Lookout Camp has a particularly atmospheric setting, its safari tents perched on the edge of a hillside overlooking the river valley.
A short drive south of the Vaalwater to Melkrivier road, the Triple B Ranch has a stunning location overlooking vast plains, and the wide-open skies above, unpolluted by city or street lights, have an amazing display of stars most nights, something you can learn more about on one of the farm's absorbing two-hour star tours. As one of the oldest farms in the region and one of the few working farms still going strong, it is famous for its hardy, unusual-looking Bonsmara cattle. To find out more about them, and the farm's long history, you can join one of the fascinating farm tours. There's accommodation here too.
As well as the bush camps at Lapalala, there are a number of self-catering chalets and cottages in this part of the Waterberg, which, although not all located on game reserves, often make arrangements with larger farms or reserves nearby for game walks or drives. As a result, they tend to be more affordable and flexible. Although self-catering in this price range is standard, most accommodation can provide food if it's ordered in advance. The best of these establishments includes Le Thabo Pioneer Settlement ( 014 755 4178 or 082 635 8967; self-catering Price: R201-300, full board Price: R401-500), a collection of small log cabins on the banks of the Melk River on the road to Lapalala.