South Africa Guide
Free State
Golden Gate Highlands National Park
Roughly 300km northeast of Bloemfontein on the R712, Golden Gate Highlands National Park (open daily; R60 per person per day; 
058 255 0012, 
www.sanparks.org/parks/golden_gate ) is Free State's only national park. It was designated for its outstanding beauty rather than its wildlife; although eland, zebra, mountain reedbuck and black wildebeest roam the hillsides, the real attraction here is the unfettered space, eroded sandstone bastions and seamless blue skies. These rocks, grassy plateaus and incised valleys belong to the Drakensberg range, characterized here by spectacular yellow and red cliffs and overhangs.
A number of hour-long rambles into the sandstone ravines start from a direction board near the footbridge at the Glen Reenen campsite. There aren't many medium-length hikes in the park, the only exception being a physically challenging half-day walk up Wodehouse Kop, which offers great views. In the summer you can swim in a natural waterfall pool close to the Glen Reenen campsite, as well as in a regular pool; other activities at Golden Gate include fossil tours, scenic drives and hiking trails.
For accommodation on the day, call 058 255 0075, but for advance bookings call South African National Parks in Pretoria ( 012 428 9111, www.sanparks.org ). Glen ReenenRestcamp has a swimming pool, a provisions store selling basics as well as frozen braai packs, firewood and alcohol, picnic sites and a filling station. The Glen Reenen Chalets have been upgraded with semi-luxury (Price: R201-300) and economy family cottages (Price: R101-200) and basic self-catering units (Price: R101-200). The smartest place to stay, The Brandwag Hotel ( 058 255 1000 or 012 428 9111, www.sanparks.org ), has well-equipped self-catering chalets (Price: R201-300) and comfortable B&B rooms (Price: R301-400), with breakfast and dinner available on request. Away from the crowds, and beautifully located, the Highlands Mountain Retreat offers luxury family log cabins (Price: R201-300) and double rooms (Price: R201-300). If the accommodation is full at Golden Gate, or you want somewhere cheaper to stay, head to nearby Clarens for a wider range of guesthouse options.
Your only choice for eating and drinking out here is at the Brandwag Hotel, which has a bar, coffee shop and restaurant – otherwise, once again, drive to Clarens.